02 June 2006

Musings about Indian food and Chinese history

Last weekend, my friend Patita took us to Madras Cafe. I've been there before, and since last time, it has expanded to about double its original size.

I think this place is more known for its dosas, which I had last time I was here. It was quite good, but not in an impressionable out-of-this world sort of way. Then again, much as I like dosas, of the various South Indian offerings, it is not my favorite item. I find them a bit heavy. They leave me full, and yet, not completely satisfied. It's kindof hard to explain. Maybe it is the light wispy mouthfeel. As a snack, it is a perfectly satisfactory choice. However, as a dinner entree, I want something else to go along with the dosa-- curry or something to dip the dosas in.

Ah. I think I hit on the crux of the problem. The dosa is accompanied by various chutneys, "dips" and sambar. But in my case, I almost never use them, b/c they contain my nemisis herb, cilantro, or in the case of sambar (or at least the one that Madras Cafe serves), I need to use it sparingly, b/c it is quite spicy. So I am missing out on this potential variety of textures and leaving my urge to sop up this delicate sponge-like wafer in some sort of dense, chunky matter unassuaged.

My preferred South Indian dish is the uttapam. Whereas the dosa is more like a crepe, the uttapam is more like a pancake. Perhaps an Indian version of banh xeo, which I also like quite a bit. This time, I ordered an onion tomato uttapam. And this time, the food was "impressionably" fantastic. I still used very little of the accompanying dips and sambar, but the uttapam alone left me quite satisfied. It had a very good nutty flavor, and a slightly fermented flavor which reminded me of the Ethiopian injera.

I also sampled the paratha (I think that was what it was-- it was like a roti) and the masala dosa--all of which were very good.

The service was speedy and efficient, the food was wonderful, and the prices were unbelievably reasonable. (In fact, I asked my friend whether I should order a few more things, b/c I couldn't believe that I could get a full meal for under $5. ) I definitely plan to go back for more.

I used to frequent Saravana Bhavan before it moved to its new location. I actually have not made it over there since it moved, but back in the day, it was one of my favorite Indian restaurants. Since it has been ages since I've been there, I can't really do a valid comparison, but I am very curious to compare this restaurant's offerings with that of Madras Cafe's. Sounds like a good impetus for a visit soon.

(Also on my list of places to check out is Vic's Chaat House in Berkeley. My friend calls it "even better than India". )

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